Procurement category: Textiles
Social/environmental impacts targeted: protection of labour rights in the textile sector
Relevant EU legislation/policy/guidance: EU GPP criteria on Textile (2017) and the Technical background report.
Background
Erfurt is the capital and the largest city of the central German state of Thuringia, with around 216.000 inhabitants. The municipality is a member of the local Fair and Sustainable Procurement Working Group, which includes 24 Thuringian municipalities, authorities, ministries, institutions, and organizations from the social economy and civil society. It is also a member of the International Fair Trade Town and the Fair Trade School campaigns.
To prevent violations of labour and social rights in the process of manufacturing of textiles, the city recently concluded a framework agreement for the supply of personal protective equipment and workwear, compliant with the International Labour Organisation (ILO) core labour standards.
Procurement objectives
The framework agreement for the supply of personal protective equipment and workwear is one of the actions Erfurt is using to boost the demand for fairly-traded products in the textile sector through public procurement.
By taking into account ILO core labour standards, this framework agreement also contributes to Erfurt’s commitments in the framework of the local Fair and Sustainable Working Group, as well as the international Fair Trade campaigns. Indeed, all these initiatives aim to promote sustainable consumption and production patterns, as well as decent work in global value chains.
The framework covers the needs of various municipal facilities/units, such as the parks, canal maintenance, sewage, gardening, cemetery, caretaker, and medical departments. It involves the purchasing of around 750 jackets, 600 trousers, 70 tunics, 1,400 shirts, 120 vests and 3,000 gloves per year.
Tender requirements
Division into lots
The tender was divided into 6 lots:
Lot 1: High-visibility clothing for green space and road maintenance
Lot 2: High-visibility clothing for sewer maintenance
Lot 3: Workwear for nurseries, cemeteries, workshops, and sewage treatment plants
Lot 4: Workwear for building management (caretakers, electricians, etc.)
Lot 5: Workwear for the medical sector
Lot 6: Gloves
Each bidder could submit a bid for one, several, or all lots.
Technical specifications
The products of the 6 lots had to meet the following social criteria at least at the production stage of the final product (i.e., the production facility where the product was finally manufactured):
Compliance with the fundamental labour standards of the ILO Conventions:
No. 29 – Forced Labor
No. 87 – Freedom of Association and Protection of the Right to Organise
No. 98 – Right to Organise and Collective Bargaining
No. 100 – Equal Remuneration
No. 105 – Abolition of Forced Labor
No. 111 – Discrimination (Employment and Occupation)
No. 138 – Minimum Age
No. 182 – Prohibition and Immediate Action to Eliminate the Worst Forms of Child Labor
The following certifications were accepted as proof of compliance:
- Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)
- OEKO-TEX® MADE IN GREEN
- Social Accountability 8000
- Fair Labor Association (FLA)
- Fair Wear Foundation (FWF)
- or equivalent
The proof of compliance with the ILO core labour standards was provided in the form of certification (quality mark/seal), which included social audits.
Results
The contracting authority received 7 bids. In total, for the 6 lots, 3 companies were awarded.
The framework agreement was concluded with 3 companies for a duration of 2 years, which can be extended twice, each time for a duration of one year. The maximum framework term is therefore four years.
The procurement process has allowed the contracting authority to purchase high quality products, and ensure compliance with international labour standards within the municipality’s supply chains, while encouraging sustainable entrepreneurship.
Environmental and social impacts
This good practice shows how public procurement can be strategically used to boost the demand for fairly-traded products. It is also encouraging businesses to make their business models more sustainable.
Thanks to Erfurt’s involvement in the local public procurement working group and International campaigns, this good practice case has more chances to be replicated by other contracting authorities who share with Erfurt the socially responsible public procurement objectives.
Lessons learned
Advice to other contracting authorities:
- Due to their scale and broad scope, framework agreements are effective tools to increase the proportion of fairly-produced goods in public procurement, thus promoting sustainable consumption and production patterns.
- The division into lots allows contracting authorities to widen the private sector engagement with public procurement.
- The involvement in local and/or international networks that are committed to sustainable public procurement allows contracting authorities to learn from their peers and to acquire new knowledge and skills to implement their public procurement strategies and plans.
More information
Contact: Eileen Eckel, Zentrale Beschaffung